The Great British Getaway (NC 500/Scottish Highlands)

Written by Tristan Harding - Photos by Tristan Harding & Steven Braybrook

Day One – Let’s get there already! (Milton Keynes to Loch Ness)

As I planned this year’s getaway with time away from work at a premium I told myself, “Scotland is right on our doorstep.” How wrong I was, it was a long first day plodding along main mile-munching motorways to get to the heart of the action – the North Coast 500 (with a slight twist).

It began a dreary damp day which would turn to a wet one before I even left my home town of Milton Keynes, by the time I arrived at the petrol station rendezvous 75 miles later to pick up my friend Steve (who planned to complete the trip on his GSXR 750), I was already cold and glad my jacket was still waterproof. More miserable miles clocked up as we caught up with each other over comms and consoled ourselves that the trip would be a greater adventure in the wet anyway as it would be ‘the real Scotland’.

The average speed cameras on the A9 serve two purposes, to slow traffic and to give you time to admire the view on the way in to Inverness, and for us, to give us plenty of time to have thought about how much we probably should have filled up at that last petrol station a good few miles back. Thankfully, we noticed a sign for local services with the holy symbol of a fuel pump and took this as a sign from God that you probably won’t make it to Aviemore with the fuel light shining bright. It was divine intervention indeed, this would be the first taste of the type of roads we would be riding. I decided to take us through what turned out to be Dalwhinne to re-join the A9 further along it’s path. The road back was heavenly, a small beautiful thing in the bottom of the valley which we charged along taking in some sweeping bends, chasing a stream to our right and zipping past the rolling moorland hills to our left, this left us grinning from ear-to-ear giving us the motivation to carry on the tail end of the 550 mile trip to our starting point for the NC500, Foyers.

Foyers? “That isn’t on the NC500 route!” I hear you scream, no… it’s not. I decided to add a couple of flourishes of my own to the route to make it a little different, though roughly 90% of the NC500 route is covered. This does prove a point I thought of on the trip, you really can’t go far wrong riding this far North and not come across some amazing scenery, though you’d miss out on a lot varied riding and landscape if you didn’t vaguely follow the NC500.

Finally off the A9, we are entertained by a small single track which wound around with little streams either side of the road and ducking through woodland canopies until we entered Foyers and the small gravel lanes which we tentatively rode along (legs dangling either side in case the worst should happen), up to our lovely old hotel on the South shore of Loch Ness, this certainly is a different starting point for our NC500. A quaint village, proper old converted Scottish house for our hotel and the only pub in the village half way up the hill (an easy stagger back) and some beautiful falls to reflect on the journey ahead, who could ask for more?

Day 2 – Stunning Scotland (Loch Ness to Ullapool)

The sun rose, and we awoke on the shore of Loch Ness, standing outside the hotel gazing over the loch the water is calm and the flanking wooded hills are still, our first proper day in Scotland had begun. We started with an educational stop at the Loch Ness Visitor Centre, well it would be rude not to swing by and see Nessie whilst we were in the area, besides I promised my dog I’d bring him back a stuffed Nessie toy.

After failing to find Nessie, we headed towards our next destination, Eilean Donan Castle, upon entering the ticket office to buy tickets the lovely lady offers to take care of our helmets whilst we explore the castle and boats that this is “the most beautiful castle in the whole of Scotland!” I’ll have to take her word for it and upon crossing the bridge to see the castle stretching out in to the water where three lochs meet it’s hard to argue otherwise.

Feeling enlightened upon finding out the Jacobean history behind the castle and exploring it’s faithfully restored walls (oddly with the current keepers modern family photos juxtaposed against the old era-correct rooms and furniture) and not fancying the crowded tourist-trap café, we headed on in search of lunch on route to re-join the NC500 for the Bealach na Bà pass over to Applecross.

Just before reaching the foot of the pass, we round a bend and clap eyes on what was likely to be the only pub in the area and make a quick late brake and right turn in to the junction to park up. This was The Strathcarron and it could not have been a better choice, entering the pub-cum-hotel there was bagpipe music playing, tables covered in tartan and the land lord in a kilt, it all came across rather genuine, or at least tastefully done and not a tacky show for the punters. After eating a rather interesting, but delicious take on haggis by the Caribbean chef, who made lightly fried haggis balls (much better than they probably sound, trust me), we were ready for what was now surely one of the hyped highlights of the trip.

The Bealach na Bà, Pass of the Castle, an 11 mile ride up and over the Applecross peninsula with stunning views over Loch Carron on the East side and the Isle of Skye and it’s surrounding islands on the West. It’s the kind of place that gives gigantic views which make you feel tiny trying to take it all in and on a day like the day we were there, the clear sky gives the feeling of endless space as you cast your gaze across the sparkling waters. The road itself is a beautiful single-track sprinkled with a few tight switch backs on the East side and a few twists descending to Applecross on the other side, easily passable with no problems on a motorbike in spring, however I can easily believe the signs warning of the dangers of trying to pass in the winter months.

Fuelling up at the community petrol station in Applecross (fuel is more plentiful than people would make you think on the NC500 route as long as you have a range of at least 150 miles and plan your route), grinning like kids in a toy store and nattering away about how we hope there is more of the same ahead, we cut North to follow the coast around towards Fearnmore, over to Shieldaig and beyond to Kinlochewe, this route maintains this great feeling of space, freedom and beauty. Sweeping down to almost sea-level before climbing back up to blast along mountain roads, darting in and out of the shadows of woodland.

Arriving in Kinlochewe to fuel, the mood becomes more sombre, the road up to Gairloch had been closed due to a fatal accident involving a motorbike, watching various cars go up the road and not turn around and some trickling back towards us, we hedge our bets and set off to stay on the NC route, rather than take the 80 mile detour to Ullapool (our second stop for the night). Turns out the road was closed and we crawled carefully along the families out of cars having picnics towards the front where we found some fellow bikers who inform us the road had been closed for about six hours and the road should be open soon.

Time passed quickly with our new-found friends nattering about who’s going where, who’s riding what and general banter and an hour or so after arriving, the road is opened back up, we all gear up and continue forward with our trips. Slowly passing through the scene of the accident was the sobering images of a crumpled A-pillar of a ford fiesta (still with blood on) and various bits of bike scattered up the road until a ghastly, empty helmet lying at the side of the road is facing us – a stark reminder that in this beautiful and bountiful playground of a road, the risks still lie around every corner and the care-free feeling became caution as we finished a long day riding in towards Ullapool.

Ullapool, a small fishing community on the North side of Loch Broom, the largest place we would stay on our travels whilst on the NC500 route. A few pubs in town are a short walk away from pretty much anywhere you want to stay, be it a hotel, camping site or b&b, you have the one where the locals go, one were the tourists go and the one with a bit of both, though it seems the locals don’t care much for tourists and we ended up opting to spend the night in The Arch Inn where we found some friendly locals and fellow adventurers where we swapped tips and tales (thanks Will and Sarah for the Edinburgh tips!).

Day 3 – Twist and Turn (Ullapool to Orkney)

Morning had broken, felling rather groggy from the late night the fresh air from the loch felt rejuvenating as we loaded the bikes up for another day of more of the same as yesterday, we decided not to take one of my alternate routes which would have been a twisty transit West at Drumrunie and up to Inverkirkaig. Little did we know that today would be the hardest day of riding on the whole trip anyway, as heading off the A837 on to the B869 towards Stoer, around Drumbeg towards Unapool would be the twistiest (think blind bends and crests on a single-track road) and worst condition roads on the whole trip. This section of the road really gave the feeling of being off-road without being off-road, not only because of the scenery, but because the road surface was ever-changing, potted and would often have gravel patches. Upon getting in to this section of road I ended up almost going Evel Kinevel over a blind crest with too much speed, it had a sharp left just after cresting which set the tone for the next few miles. Taking it easy passing by the little communities along this small road, dodging the sheep and small lochs, gave a sense of accomplishment having finished this section of the NC500 (having never yet been off-road proper, though I’ve got plans on correcting that).

Once we were back on the A894 heading North towards Durness things got easier and the road became more gentle, stopping for lunch by Keoldale (just outside Durness) at a burger van to recharge in a serene setting overlooking the Kyle of Durness and it’s quick sands which come from the large sea tide it’s hard to believe that so far being half way round we have already been charging along lochs, thundering through glens, ploughing through forests and playing mountain goat on the single road tracks – this ride really does have everything.

After a quick splash and dash in Durness we pulled over not far to the East to see Smoo Cave, an odd cave as it looks like something out of The Beach and you could fool yourself that you are actually in Asia as you finish the decent and enter the cave, it’s only small, but a worthy distraction and kept going by local enthusiasts who can take you for a tour deeper in if that’s your thing. The next stop is what I’m looking forward to the most – Dunnet Bay Distillery, however a quick time check meant that we needed to get shifting in order to make the final tour time, so we hurried back up the hill at Smoo Cave and jumped back on the bikes.

The dash to the distillery along the North coast was a mix of riding along lochs, climbing up and down mountains, roaring across moorland, traversing the sea at Tounge, all before coming down the mountains, out of the moorland and into the farm land around Thurso. This was probably the most relaxing part of the route, with two-way roads becoming more common, the sweeping bends came back along with some tighter climbs and lovely road surface opposed to the broken up single track from the morning.

Arriving at Dunnet Bay Distillery, we had made good time and arrived with 15 minutes in hand, must have been a few of those key camper overtakes that made up the time. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this distillery, all I know is that Steve wanted a different alcohol-based foray this year after riding around Oban last year and its whisky distillery, and Dunnet Bay produced gin and vodka – an intriguing change for somewhere in the heart of whisky country. A modest fee got us some of the last tickets available for the tour and boy was it worth the rush, in a fancy converted barn with wooden beams and a roaring copper fire (representing a still, don’t ya know) we learnt a little about the history of gin and it’s demonisation in the 18th century, why it’s on the rise again and a bit about the interesting story behind the distilleries founding and the experimental work they do with various flavours, really cementing that this is a proper distillery who cares about the product. Of course gin was also on offer as part of the tour, we took a complimentary sample on our way and headed on another of my diversions from the route, we headed back towards Thurso, to Scrabster to catch a ferry.

I had decided in the planning of the trip that we would go to Orkney, partly because I was meant to see a friend a few years back here (who so it happens we met at our last stop) and partly because it looked like an interesting part of the world to see whilst we were in the area.

After the hour and a half trip over to Stromness we rolled off the ferry and was already on the doorstep of our hotel, the aptly named Stromness Hotel, home to the local pub, centre of nightlife in the small town and down to earth honest, with friendly staff and locals. This is where we unwound for the evening, perhaps a little too hard as it was some ungodly hour I can’t quite remember when we got back to the room.

Day 4 – Downward Dogs (Orkney to Edinburgh)

The final day of riding before heading home and we awoke to find glorious sunshine, clear skies and much needed fresh sea air filling our lungs, I decided to take an easy start to the morning by visiting the cliffs at Yesnaby after being told by a friend it’s a nice relaxing walk, not that we were feeling in the mood for a walk, but figured it would be a nice place to wake up, try to figure out last nights antics, the discuss the final throws of our journey and embrace the sea breeze as we gazed Westward over the sea which stretches undisturbed until it hits America.

Once sufficiently awake, we did the childish thing of going to visit Twatt, though unfortunately the forewarning that the sign is often missing came to be true, so no childish picture for us. From there we cut across the island on its practical, straight as a die, no hedges and light traffic roads, opening up the bikes a little on the way to the Ring of Brodgar for something more cultured, a UNESCO world heritage site, featuring a Neolithic henge betwixt Loch Harray and Stenness. We then headed past the Standing Stones of Stenness (just down the road from Brodgar) on to the heart of Orkney, Kirkwall. Unfortunately, this being a Sunday morning everything was closed, so onwards we went to find a link to the past – a WW2 Italian POW camp church, which the inmates built themselves and looks quirkily out of place in this rugged island terrain, but none the less pretty, it’s as if someone had picked it up from Italy and placed it here.

Running out of time, our brief, but enjoyable detour from the 500 had come to an end with the road calling us back to the mainland, so onwards we go once more to catch our ferry at St Margret’s Hope (yes there are two ferries servicing Orkney from the main land), hopping between the smaller islands along the Churchill Barrier causeways, built to help protect ships in Scapa Flow, it almost feels as if you are riding on water.

The shorter trip back on the St. Margret’s Hope to Gills ferry provided amazing views of the Orkney’s as it passes through all the smaller islands, leaving some regret in not taking more time to explore and the thought to come back some day. It’s only an hour before we were on the main land again and we just had to do the clichéd stop off at John-O-Groats, especially as last year I went to Cornwall and Lands End (I wanted the matching magnet for the fridge), not a lot to be said for John-O-Groats other than it has a decent, if overpriced, café to eat at and some third hand sense of accomplishment as we see groups of riders completing a charity ride.

Back on the road, the last stretch of the 500 was a some-what unforgettable blur, save the coastal road giving a view of the grand power house of the off-shore wind farms and the odd twisty bit around near Ousdale. Don’t get me wrong, the East coast is nice, but busier and not as twisty as on the West coast, perhaps we were spoilt going around clockwise or maybe just ride-drunk at this point.

Time was being called on our NC 500 trip, I’d decided not to finish in Inverness, but to push on past and steal a march on the slog home for the final day of riding and end our day in Edinburgh. I had the notion that I’d spend the morning there and explore, but found myself wanting for home after what began a pleasant, but long night meeting up with my Orkney born friend, Jamie, who tour-guided me around some of the best pubs the city had to offer, from student stake-outs to small cosy pubs with live folk music and everything in between, before spending a long night rescuing Steve who ventured to, well, shall we say, less cultured areas of the city.

There we have it, 1600+ miles round trip from home, 5 days, a hell of a lot of riding and every mile there and back worth it. The NC500 really makes you feel like you are doing something bigger, like you are on an off-road Boorman type adventure, but on roads that are smoother (albeit gravelly in places), it gives you the feeling when you are riding that you are hundreds of miles away from anyone or anything, but at the end of a days riding you can breeze in to the next town or village to stop for the night and sleep in a comfortable bed. I’m glad we went earlier in the year to feel the freedom of the road, as speaking to the locals it seems that the route is really picking up in popularity, but I’d say get out there and experience it before it becomes the next Cornwall-type getaway, there are plenty of distractions along the way, chances to carve your own way on and off the route. If you choose to ride up for it, it’s worth every mile and you could even stop off at the Peak or Lake district on the way up if you have the time and remember, go around anti-clockwise!

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